Carricante("Kair-eh-kan-tay") Origins and Parentage
Local tradition refers to Viagrande in the province of Catania, on the Italian island of Sicilia, as the cradle of Carricante. The name is more than likely refers to the variety's abundant yields("carica" means 'load'). In 1774, Sestini tells that Etna vintners used to leave Carricante("Kair-eh-kan-tay") wines on their lees in barrel to induce malolactatic fermentation in the spring and thus reduce their naturally high acidity, kind of like how California Chardonnay is produced. Cipriani in 2010 have recently suggested through DNA parentage analysis that Carricante is a possible Montonico Pinto and Scacco natural cross, two really non-commerical grapes, but to be honest, this is still under investigation.
Viticultural Characteristics
Late ripening, usually harvested at the end of September or in early October, sometimes even later in order to allow acidity to drop. Bushvines are common.
Where Carricante is grown
Carricante is cultivated on the eastern slopes of Etna, Sicily, mainly in the province of Catania(Viagrande, Trecastagni, Zafferana Etnea, and Milo). In other parts of Sicilia, Carricante is sometimes called Catarratto. It's often blended with other white varietals such as Catarratto Bianco, Inzolia, & Minella Bianca. These are also pretty indigineous grapes to Sicily, and are non commercial. In the blend, it must be have at least 60% Carricante for "Etna Bianco" and 80% Carricante for Etna Bianco Superiore, and these grapes can only come from the subzone known as Milo. It is often used to soften the red wine that is made here as well known as Nerello Mascalese, which we will feature in the future, but if you like Pinot Noir, you may like Nerello Mascalese as well!
What Carricante tastes like
However, 100% Carricante wines can be impressive and delicious, showing notes of orange and grapefruit, orange flowers, aniseed, and white fruits, saline, with fresh acidity and a noticeable mineral quality from the soils of Mt. Etna. Sometimes you can find a honey note in the younger versions.
What food to pair Carricante with
With such high acidity and subtle saline notes, this is a great choice to match alongside spicy, aromatic foods. Southeastern Asian dishes play well, such as Thai dishes and curries. That being said, the wine is made in Sicily, so you'd be remiss not to try it with herbed and breaded stuffed sardines, arancine di riso ripiene di formaggio (cheese-stuffed rice balls), and eggplant cutlets. You could also do a Rapini based dish with sausage, like I did!
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